Make your own Khad Meat with your host Ram Pratap Singh Jarar at the Chambal Safari Lodge. A whole leg of lamb cooked in a 2 feet deep pit with coal fire embers at the bottom, Khad Meat is a local speciality, much refined over the years, but owes its origins to the Baghis’ (rebels) turbulent existence in the much maligned behad (ravines) of Chambal. The notorious Chambal behad can proudly lay claim to this ingenious recipe for cooking meat, creating a delicacy in the most hostile environs; when no fire could be lit without fear of discovery by the police and death by the bullet, when each meal could well have been your last and when rebellion against the system was the highest mark of honour. I was introduced to this recipe as a child and was taught to cook it much later in life, almost as a rite of passage, in my youth. My tutors were a raucous bunch of male family members who gathered once a year at the Mela Kothi in Jarar for the family run animal fair. Amidst stories of Shikar (hunting) camps along the Chambal River and boarding school pranks, they competed with one another over a 15 day period to produce the most appetising innovation of age-old recipes, says Ram Pratap Singh Jarar who started Chambal Safari Lodge 14 years ago. The judges were the ladies of the household. The hotly debated winner had unrestrained bragging rights till the next season of madness, adds Anu, his wife.